August 20, 2025, 10:05 pm | Read time: 3 minutes
Self-tanners promise quick, convenient tans from a bottle, tube, or spray can. Instead of spending hours in the sun, risking sunburn and permanent skin damage, simply applying the product is enough. It sounds like a skin-friendly method at first! But do these products, which often have a distinctive smell, contain a lot of chemicals? Is the summer glow from a can truly harmless? What to consider when buying and using them–and when self-tanners can be harmful …
Pale face, pasty legs – a self-tanner can quickly give your skin a touch of summer glow. But how does it actually work? “After applying a self-tanner, a chemical reaction occurs in the body,” explains Dr. Alice Martin, dermatologist and co-founder of the telemedicine practice Dermanostic. “Self-tanners contain the carbohydrates dihydroxyacetone or erythrulose. They react with proteins in our corneocytes, creating so-called melanoidins that discolor our corneocytes.”
Many might be familiar with this–on the elbows, knees, or even the soles of the feet, the skin often appears darker after applying a self-tanner than on the rest of the body. “We have more corneocytes in these areas, so the chemical reaction is stronger,” explains the dermatologist. “That’s why you should definitely exfoliate before applying a self-tanner.”
Also interesting: Even eyes can get ‘sunburned’
When Self-Tanners Can Be Harmful
Most self-tanners promise a tan lasting three to five days but do not protect against UV radiation: “You are still susceptible to sunburn during this time,” warns Dr. Alice Martin. “I also advise against wearing light clothing. Strong friction can remove the upper corneocytes, and the clothing may become discolored.”
Can I use self-tanners with a clear conscience, or might I be harming my skin? “In general, all approved self-tanners are harmless,” says the dermatologist. “However, they should be stored cool, as dihydroxyacetone, or DHA, can otherwise break down into formaldehyde, which can be carcinogenic.”
Those prone to allergies should pay close attention to the ingredients when purchasing, advises Dr. Alice Martin: “Self-tanners have a classic smell, and many manufacturers try to mask it with certain fragrances. However, these can cause irritation.”
Are There (Real) Alternatives to Self-Tanners?
“There are alternatives, but not necessarily better ones, as self-tanners are already very well formulated,” says the dermatologist. “One option is carrot oil. However, the skin does not turn brown but rather orange.” This can also happen to women with skin type I or II–very fair skin types–when using self-tanners.